The Henson Journals

[68]

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Monday, September 23rd, 1912.

We had rather a hustle in getting off by the 7.25 train. Max & Jack motored us to the station: and Aubrey turned up at the station. So we left Winnipeg.

I observed that on both sides of the railway line the crops were either uncut or uncarried for the most part. There were many evidences of recent heavy rains. At Pembina the American customs officer boarded the train: & there we were delayed by our lack of the legal description &c. As we were staying more than 30 days in the States, we had to pay a 'head–tax' of 4 dollars apiece!

The guard on the train was extremely anxious to show me civility. He said he was a friend of Bp. Mann, that he knew me & my writings &c. Finally we had some lunch 'as his guests'. He asked me for my card, & seemed pleased to have it.

The heavy rains have had so ill an effect on the permanent way, that our train could not be driven at a fast pace. We reached Manitoba Junction more than 2 hours after time. From thence to Fargo was but 45 minutes in a very crowded train. At Fargo the Bishop was awaiting us on the platform. I was amused by the sour–visaged female in the baggage room who stoutly refused to admit our dropsical 'hold–all'– 'she could not check bedding' – until a constable was [69] [symbol] called in. At this time of the year, the country is invaded by great numbers of poor harvesters whose possessions are commonly summed up in unclean 'bedding'. The lady's implicit compliment to my appearance was fully appreciated!

Bp. & Mrs Mann are full of their experiences in New Mexico, where the former has been taking episcopal charge during the vacancy of the see. He has collected a good many interesting curios, mainly Indian pottery. We had, of course, an argument on the question of Anglican policy. His Lordship certainly does not grow more tolerant as he grows older. It is extraordinary how powerful a hold the exclusive theory has on the mind which once has admitted it. A layman, who came to see me, seemed but little impressed with his 'diocesan's' argument, & stated baldly that he believed many laymen to be kept outside the Churches by the 'high church' attitude of the clergy. Bp. Mann is very positive that the undoubted weakness of the Church in Canada is mainly due to the fact that 'the Church is run on Low Church lines, & hangs on to England'. He says that his own best clergy in North Dakota are Tractarian refugees from Canada! In Canada I am assured that the Tractarianism of the clergy drives the people into Methodism!

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