The Henson Journals

[315]

Wednesday, September 13th, 1911. Lübeck.

A brilliant day. At 6 a.m. I was awakened by the sun shining full on me in bed. I went out in order to get shaved (for I have lapsed into this self–indulgence also), & after some trouble I found a barber's shop, & was decently shaved by a young speechless German. Then I returned to the Hôtel just in time to say goodbye to Owen & the youth. After breakfast we "did" Lübeck. First, we saw the Rathouse, where is some miraculously fine wood–carving in the Kriegsstube. The place is all 'restored', & bepainted by a fellow named Koch. Then we went to the Cathedral & saw the splendid double Tryptych of Memling: & an astonishingly fine bronze monument of Bishop Bocholt (ob: 1341) the founder of the Church: & much else. Next we visited the Museum, hard by the Church. Here is a heterogeneous collection including some excellent medieval woodcarving, & the usual grotesque rubbish from the South Sea islands. It is pathetic to see the débris of medievalism – altar pieces, vestments, &c– exhibited thus. Then we went to the Church of St Mary at noon, & saw the little figures of the Apostles (there were only eight) trot out, & make their demure mechanical bob to the carved little wooden Christ. Then we paid a hasty visit to the Hospital zum Heiligen Geist & the Kaufleute–Kompanie's house – where is some more good carving – & then returned to the Hotel, paid our reckoning, & came away to Bremen.

[316]

We left Lübeck at 2.17 p.m.: arrived at Hamburg at 3.40 p.m.: had tea in the station, & left at 4.31 p.m. arriving at Bremen at 6.11 p.m. We put up at the Hôtel Central, opposite the station. We were given a small room on the 3rd floor & no lift! After washing, we went to the Rath–house [sic], & had supper in the Ratskeller. While we sate at our modest meal, the custodian came along jingling his keys to summon all who would to see the cellars. So we joined the curious & mingled throng of visitors, & were shown the great tuns & barrels in which the vintages of centuries were treasured. We wound up with the gross Bacchus Tun. The fanaticks of Total Abstinence should spend some months on the continent, & then, when perforce they have learned the naturalness & excellence of wine–drinking as shown in the vine–lands, should be bidden to reconsider their dreary drastic creed. Then we returned to the Hôtel bought post–cards & stamps, and wound up the day by disposing of them.

From an article in one of the German Papers I gather that in Germany also a 'heresy–hunt' is proceeding: that the Protestant 'orthodox' are exhibiting the too–familiar traits of 'orthodoxy'; & that the general apathy allows the oppression of individuals. England is no exception to the general rule: only in the sphere of belief in "Apostolic Succession" oppression is conscientious & indispensable. Here, where that baleful fiction is unknown, it is neither.

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