The Henson Journals

[300]

Wednesday, September 6th, 1911. Stockholm.

Still glides the Stream, & shall for ever glide;

The Form remains, the Function never dies;

While we, the brave, the mighty, & the wise,

We Men, who in our morn of youth defied

The elements, must vanish–

Wordsworth. 538.

I wrote last night to Arthur, whose unexpected return from India is just reported; and Ernest Rudling: & also sent cards to Nimbus, Marcus, & Marion. This morning I wrote to the Dean.

After breakfast we went to the National Museum, & there spent the morning. It is a huge & multifarious collection of very varied interest & value. The modern Swedish pictures are far superior to the modern Danish. I noticed with special interest a fine portrait of Döllinger. There are some admirable pictures by Rembrandt, Rubens, & the Dutch masters. We had again occasion to admire the excellence of the Scandinavian sculpture. The classical works were mostly inferior: there was of course a plethora of casts of all the master–pieces.

After lunch I wrote to Sir Henry Craik. Lord Kilmarnock called in the afternoon. Unfortunately Ella had gone out to make some purchases. He civilly asked us to lunch tomorrow at his country house.

[301]

We strolled about the city as there was no time to make an expedition. The shops, judged from their windows are, perhaps, not quite adequate: but of course it must be remembered that Stockholm is out of town.

We dined early, and then went to the Opera in the large Theatre in front of the Hôtel. We saw two pieces, 'Iolante', and 'På Sicilien' (Cavalleria rusticana). The singing was good but too loud & rough for mine ears. The mise en scène was pretty & effective. But as I could not understand a word, it was all dumb (?) show.

I found a letter from the Sub–dean awaiting me. He has been taking part in some fraternisations between the Established & Episcopal Churches. He seems to attach importance to them: but they are nothing more than a little exploitation of Scottish good nature by the Episcopacy–mongers, who get the opportunity of blowing their pseudo–historical trumpet on presbyterian soil! However, the general public does not discriminate, and it may perhaps be the case that the spectacle of Episcopalians & Presbyterians combining in a single function impresses them as an honest essay in Christian Fellowship. Anyway it is certainly sound tactics on my part to assume that it is nothing less, though truly I know that it is nothing of the kind on the Episcopalian side! Of course one must make charitable allowance for sheer muddleheadedness. There is much of it in the sphere of ecclesiastical politics.

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