The Henson Journals

[298]

Tuesday, September 5th, 1911. Stockholm.

An immense grunting female marshalled me through miles of corridor to a rather dilapidated bath–room, where – at a cost of 1 kr. 50 or. – I restored myself to a measure of self–respect. Before breakfast I expended 40 or. in getting shaved. The operation was performed swiftly, effectively, & (a welcome novelty) quietly. Even the professional loquacity of a Swedish barber stood dumb before the natural fortress of Language. After breakfast we walked out into the City, which looked ravishingly beautiful in the sunshine, & reflecting in its water the bluest of blue skies. We visited the Riddarhus, the Royal Palace, the Storkyrka, & the Riddarsholm Kyrka where lie the remains of Gustavus Adolphus, Charles XII, & Bernadotte. The historic interest of the Royal tombs gives an artificial importance to a small & much mutilated Gothick church. The Storkyrka is a brick church built or rather re–built in the Gothick style during the 18th century. It has a fine 17th century altar piece in silver, ivory, & ebony: & a seven–branched brass candelabrum of the 14th century. The public statues of Stockholm are good, & well–shown. From the palace windows one gains the noblest views of the city. We returned to the hotel for lunch, & were pleased to find our luggage from Copenhagen in our room. It had been fetched by the porter & carried through the custom–house [299] without difficulty.

After lunch I wrote several letters, which required to be sent in answer to several forwarded from England viz:–

1. To Manning, consenting to add my signature to a manifesto to be put forward by the 'Churchmen's Union'.
2. To Mr Thomas, refusing permission to a Nonconformist minister to 'assist' at a wedding in St Margaret's.
3. To Mr Algernon Villiers permitting his marriage in S. Margaret's, with Miss Paul.
4. To Mr Walker, Sec: of the London & Middlesex Archaeological Society granting permission for the said society to view S. Margt's on Sept. 28th at 4 p.m.

Then we left cards on Sir Cecil Spring Rice at the British Legation, & on Lady Kilmarnock at her residence. We next went on to the Skansen, & viewed the collection of Swedish birds & beasts. The owls, eagles, & brown bears are excellent: the rest disappointing. There was but one polar bear. The elk looked mean & dilapidated, & they no longer possessed a pool in which to drink their fill. An American bear with two cubs obligingly gave them suck – a curiously humane function. Our return to the Hotel was delayed by a protracted but fruitless effort to purchase some methylated spirit for the nourishment of the small lamp which boils the water for our early tea! Finally we had to appeal to the hôtel porter!

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