The Henson Journals

[286]

Tuesday, August 29th, 1911. Kiel.

It rained furiously at breakfast time, but as the day advanced the weather improved, and caused us no discomfort. Hardly had we established ourselves in the 8.38 a.m. train than we were hustled out of it into the 8.56, which went direct to Kiel. Then we suspected error in our calculations. An anxious search in Bradshaw changed our suspicions into certainties. We found that but two steamers make the passage from Kiel to Korsör in the 24 hours: that we had missed the day–boat which leaves at 9.30 a.m.; and must perforce travel by the night–boat which leaves at 1.30 a.m. As our train brought us to Kiel at 10.55 a.m., we had many hours to pass there. We began by visiting the Thaulow Museum, where we saw 'an unrivalled collection of Schleswig–Holstein wood–carvings (16th–17th cent.) presented to the province in 1875 by the late Prof. Thaulow, besides household furniture &c.' The wood–carving is mostly ecclesiastical, and is remarkable for its realistic force & artistic beauty. My wife lost herself in envy of the Dutch furniture!

Next we had an ample Mittag–essen at the Hotel Germania; & immediately afterwards went on board a small steamer, & spent two hours in making the [287] tour of the harbour. This is very extensive, & contains in floating–docks, ship–building yards, & many war vessels abundant evidence of that naval activity which moves in England so many misgivings. We saw the entrance to the Kaiser Wilhelm Canal, which links the Baltic with the North Sea, & must have critical importance if England & Germany get to war. Next we had tea at the Hansa Restaurant, & then were driven for an hour about the city. We were taken along the Düsternbrooker Weg, a fine road running along the harbour bank, & bordered by many fine houses. We noted the Schloss where Prince Henry resides, and the large buildings of the University & new Rathäus. Then we walked about the town, & by the courtesy of the custodian's wife, were able to see the interior of S. Nicholas' Church, a much restored church of the 13th century. Here we found a splendid bronze font of the 14th century, a fine carved wooden reredos of the 15th, and an elaborate pulpit of the 17th. By this time it was nearly 7 p.m., so we walked back to the Hansa Hotel through streets crowded with gaily dressed people among whom the officers & men of the German fleet were very conspicuous. After dinner we went to the station, recovered our baggage, & went out on board the Danish steamer. There we hired a private cabin, & went to bed.

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