The Henson Journals

[122]

Friday, September 17th, 1920.

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We packed our bags before going out with the Professor to visit St Nicholas Church. Here we did our homage at the grave of the Crown Princess, and then were conducted over the Church by the Vicar, [(a very bibulous–looking ecclesiastic)] It contains a famous figure of St George & the Dragon set up in the 15th century. We saw also a number of fine vestments & much communion plate. This church which is the "Town church" is the coronation place of the Swedish monarchs since the time of Gustavus Vasa. It is a brick–built Gothic church, rather gaudily restored. Olaus Petri ministered here, & his tomb–stone is shown underneath the pulpit. Next we went to the old Meeting House of the Nobles, which is a fine rectangular chamber adorned with the shields of the Swedish nobility. We walked back to the Hotel, [& "brushed up"] before proceeding to the Royal Palace to lunch with the Crown Prince. This was a very agreeable experience. The Prince was affable & intelligent. Two of his children were present. After lunch H.R.H. showed us the Riddarholm Church which is undergoing restoration, & then sent us to the station in his motor. We travelled by a slow train (47 m. in 2 hrs) to Upsala, & were met at the station by the Archbishop. He has staying here one of these inevitable Greek prelates, who have the same fascination for modern Scandinavians as the wives of the South for their barbarous ancestors! After dinner this potentate lectured to a numerous company in ^modern^ Greek, being translated into Swedish. I was edified by neither version, being ignorant of both tongues.

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The Archbishop took us (Peterborough & me) into the cathedral, & expounded the arrangements for Sunday's function. What vestments would we wear? I replied that we wd appear [in red] ^our Convocation robes^ after the English manner. Were those robes the proper consecrating vestments? Here P. replied that the English bishops wore cape & mitre; but I pointed out that this practice was a modern innovation, & that no such vestments were generally worne in England. The Abp. of C. always wore the red Convocation habit at consecrations. This appeared to satisfy Abp. Söderblom, & he said that we must act as officiating prelates, and take our stand beside him on either side of the altar. Also, we must read one of the Scriptural passages, either in Swedish or in Greek. We elected to read Swedish! and were subsequently "coached" in the pronunciation! The Archbishop kept us up talking until a few minutes before midnight. He is an extremely clever & versatile man, & watches very closely the signs of their preferences which his hearers betray. Then he matches his words, with quite amazing adroitness, to those preferences. He is somewhat embarrassed by having to deal at one & the same time with two, and they conflicting, exponents of Anglicanism. When he placates Peterborough, he alienates Durham: when Durham smiles approval: Peterborough frowns discontent! Mainly, he is obsessed by the conventional forms of what is called ecclesiastical liberalism. He plays with Socialism: affects a mighty–zeal for democracy: & proclaims his scorn for clericalism. But he is ambitious, & fond of power. He likes to play the part of a great prelate, & has many of the qualities which mark the character of our own Archbishop! The two men are in fact very similar.

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