The Henson Journals

[397]

Tuesday, August 19th, 1913. Brussels.

We made an expedition to Liége. The railway journey (61½ miles) took just on two hours. But we were well rewarded by seeing four churches – S. Paul (the Cathedral), S. Jacques, S. Martin, & S. Cross. All were superior to the general type of Belgian Church, but S. Jacques was extraordinary by its lavish richness of ornament. I have never seen any church so elaborate & splendid. A severe critic might impugn the taste, but none could dispute the majestic effect of the architecture. There was some good 16th century glass, in the Choir, & South Transept. The Town impressed us as prosperous & well–arranged. We met so many girls of the factory type, but good looking & buxom, that we concluded Liége must be a centre of factories employing female labour. We drove for half an hour round the city, before going to the station for our return to Brussels. The train was so crowded that we could find no place in the second class carriages, & were driven perforce to enter a first class compartment. The ticket–man recognized the adequacy of our plea, & suffered us to remain. We got back to the Hotel about 7.15 p.m: & dressed for dinner with creditable rapidity. We received a consignment of letters from England which arrived during the day.

[398]

The Belgian papers give considerable space to the escape of that wretched degenerate Harry Thaw, & even print his photograph & that of his wife. This resuscitated scandal is worked into another & perhaps even graver one. For Thaw is utilizing the ridiculous situation created in the government of the State of New York by the misdeeds of the Governor, Sulzer, & his contest with the Deputy Governor. Both claim the executive authority, & while the dispute proceeds neither can act effectively. So Harry Thaw can remain at large with comparative security.

Carnegie is announced to be coming to Brussels, where the King will give a dinner party in his honour. So the Old World swings the censor to the New: and Monarchy offers incense to the Dollar–King. There is the real power of America, strong enough to impose silence on criticism in face of outrageous scandals, & to overcome scruples & prejudices which were ancient before America came on the scene of the world's history. The colossal fortunes of individuals, & the incredible scandals of the government form the staple of American News in the Press of Europe. It is certain that the latter will be easily condoned, so long as the former can dazzle men's minds, & seduce their rectitude by bribes & the expectation of bribes.

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