The Henson Journals

[34]

Thursday, September 5th, 1912. Quebec.

We were called punctually at 3 a.m., completed our packing, breakfasted, & then drove to the station at Metis. The train was timed to leave at 5.30 a.m., but was 10 minutes late. Our journey to Quebec – which we reached about 1.30 p.m. – was not particularly pleasant. The train was crowded, the number of Roman ecclesiastics being extraordinary, the weather had become suddenly warm, and there was the usual Transatlantic objection to fresh air. I was interested in a lad of 16 or 17 years old at most – he might have been younger from his appearance – who was proceeding from Prince Edward Island to Texas. He was Irish, & said that he was going so far in order to be educated in the Texas University. His intellectual life seemed altogether undeveloped: for he had nothing to read, & protested that he wished for nothing; he proposed to travel continuously for 4 days with no other distraction than sleep!! We crossed the ferry from Levis to Quebec, and were carried to the Hotel Chateau Frontenac in the hotel omnibus. There we lunched: & afterwards were driven in a quaint calèche, designed to carry two persons only, round the sights of Quebec.

[35]

Workmen were busily engaged in the initial stages of the process which is to include the Heights of Abraham in a new National Park. We were taken into the grounds of the Governor's official house, and admired the bright autumnal tints of the maple trees. The residence is nobly placed on the banks of the St Lawrence, commanding magnificent views. Returning to the hotel we had tea, & then made an unsuccessful call on Mrs Macpherson. Then I was shaved in a very astonishing way by a young French Canadian. The result was fairly satisfactory, but the method seemed to be fantastically tortuous!

The dining room was crowded, so that we had to wait in order to obtain seats. I utilized the interval by writing up this record. It turned out that some Temperance organization from Boston had invaded the Hotel. Clergymen were everywhere, all followed by affectionate & ancillary women. Their appetites & their gossip seemed equally endless. Thus we were disappointed of the pleasant evening we had promised ourselves, & after waiting an hour made an ill–served meal off such Laodicean viands as had survived the protracted ravages of the 'Knights Templars'.

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