The Henson Journals

[332]

Tuesday, September 19th, 1911. Brussels.

There's not a nook within this solemn Pass

But were an apt confessional for one

Taught by his summer spent, his autumn gone,

That Life is but a tale of morning grass

Wither'd at eve. From scenes of art which chase

That thought away, turn, & with watchful eyes

Feed it 'mid Nature's old felicities,

Rocks, rivers, & smooth lakes more clear than glass

Untouch'd, unbreathed upon. Thrice happy guest,

If from a golden perch of aspen spray

(October's workmanship to rival May)

The pensive warbler of the ruddy breast

That moral sweeten by a heaven–taught lay,

Lulling the year, with all its cares, to rest!

540. Wordsworth

The weather continues fine, but there are signs of change. We spent the morning in sight–seeing. First, we visited the fine medieval church of Notre Dame du Sablon. Next, we went to the immense new Palais de Justice. It is difficult to realize that the internal height of the Salle des Pas–Perdus (320 feet) is more than three times that of the Nave of Westminster Abbey. Then we went to the Palais des Beaux Arts, & looked at the fine collections [333] of Statuary (all modern), and Pictures. The latter are magnificent. One picture by Rubens particularly impressed me more by its suggestive subject than by its artistic beauty. It depicted Christ as hurling thunderbolts against the guilty world, while the Virgin & St Francis intercede. That indicates the measure of the injury which the plausible doctrine of the Intercession of Saints has worked, & perhaps must work. For the Saints are so far nearer to us than Christ that they have been sinners: & in approaching them we inevitably build on their personal acquaintance with sin. They will understand us as the Sinless One could not: & their interest must needs me in a gentle handling of sinners. Thus we associate Mercy with their intercession; & silently exclude the Saviour from His most characteristic function.

After lunch we walked to the Porte de Hal, a fine tower 'the sole remnant of the town–wall of the 14th century'. Here is an interesting collection, 'the Musée Royal d'Armes et d'armures'. Among the sets of medieval armour I was surprised to see one which had inscribed on the breast–plate a knight kneeling before a Crucifix. Could there be a more astonishing confusion of ideas? We hired a carriage & drove to the Botanical Gardens, which are well worth seeing. There is some excellent statuary; one group impressed me. It represented Time as showing the way of life to a Youth. Then we had tea, & afterwards bought presents &c, & so wound up the day.