The Henson Journals

[291]

Saturday, September 2nd, 1911. Gothenberg.

Aloof, aloof, we stand aloof, so stand

Thou too aloof, bound with the flawless land

Of inner solitude; we bind not thee;

But who from thy self–chain shall set thee free?

788. Christina Georgina Rossetti.

The Grand Hôtel Hugland is on a large scale, & seems to be well equipped. We have a large room, but destitute of outlook from the windows, & exposed to noises & odours of the kitchen. After breakfast we walked to the quay & inspected the canal steamer in which we are to make our journey to Stockholm. Then we visited a church in which to our surprise a Lutheran service was proceeding. We could understand nothing of the Pastor's speech, but he seemed to be about to administer the Holy Communion. Next we visited the Museum, & walked quickly through several rooms filled with furniture & modern pictures! This was hardly worth even so cursory inspection. We returned to the Hotel, paid our reckoning, 'took up our carriages', & went off in a taxi to the steamer, which carries but few passengers, the tourist–season now being all but ended. The sun shone, & we made a cheerful start on our voyage to Stockholm. May the course & finish thereof be as cheerful!

[292]

On the Steamer from Gothenberg:

The Gotha river runs through a valley bordered on either side by hills. These are purple, & variously coloured by vegetation. Presently there is timber, pine of sorts. On the left about 1.30 p.m. we passed the fine ruined castle of Bohus. This made a romantic scene not unworthy of the Rhine. At this point the river widens considerably, & becomes an imposing stream, perhaps as wide as the Thames at London Bridge. At 2 a.m. [sic] we dined substantially. Our company consists of 3 English people (presumably commercial), a Dutch journalist, & a German. We conversed with some vigour on questions of politicks & 'the social question.' The river grew narrower & more winding as we ascended. A canal to make the way straighter was in making. We made a long delay at a large paper mill, which utilised the force of some rapids. Two locks carried the steamer through these: but not without some difficulty, for a stone prevented the lock from closing, & kept us waiting at least 1/2 an hour, while the obstruction was being removed. Immense quantities of timber, cut in short lengths like so many ghostly sleepers, lay afloat alongside the river–bank, & was stacked on the bank itself. The banks at this point were low, & a broad plain stretched on either side of the stream. We reached the Falls of Trollhätten about 6 p.m. and while the steamer slowly climbed up through the locks, we were led by a small boy to see the Falls. Our first view was [293] one that filled us with lamentable astonishment. An immense new power–house fills the vision, & dominates everything. Only when we had passed beyond it, and beyond the older abominations which were its precursors & justifying precedents could we find delight in the great cataract. There is no proper fall as at Niagara, but a series of monstrous rapids, which carry the Gotha River from Lake Wener down to a level of 130 feet below. The Swedish boys are horribly insistent in their offers of guidance & post–cards. Nor can it fairly be said that they atone for their impertinence by the charm of their appearance & manners. They are neither pretty, nor picturesque, nor polite. Of course these are not country children, but the children of artisans & factory hands, employed in the paper & cement factories which are worked by the 'power' of the Falls. At Trollhätte our party was increased by an Oxford don & a young man, presumably a pupil whom he is bear–leading.

After dinner we had a lively political discussion on deck. The German was perforce silent for, though able to understand English, he could not speak it. This was rather hard as we spoke of German policy. The Dutchman, however, made an eager & effective defence of the Germans: & denounced the English press as the vera causa of all the mischief. But he could not explain or justify the German performance with Russia, & now again with France.

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