The Henson Journals

[149]

Thursday, July 29th, 1909.

Quebec:–

We were awakened by the noise made by the workmen labouring in the immediate neighbourhood of the hotel. The outlook from our windows is spoiled by roofs & chimneys, but through & beyond them stretches the broad & winding flood of the St Lawrence.

The day was cooler but close & dull. By breakfast time it had started raining, & soon settled down to a 'wet day'. We called on Mrs McPherson (735 St. Ursula St.). She was a friend of Mrs Wilberforce, of whom she speaks with affection. We visited the Laval University, & were shown the collections. Never have I seen so much useless rubbish collected & exhibited before. Neither art nor science in Canada would be injured if the whole were destroyed by fire. Three rather coarse–looking Roman priests went round the University with us. Their childish delight at seeing the solitary mummy which represents Egyptian studies indicated sufficiently the narrowness of their mental range. We made our way through the rain to a shop, where we purchased some small presents for the folk at home; & then returned to the Hotel, where I had a much needed shampoo.

In the afternoon we visited the Montmorenci Falls in company with Mr Price, a gentleman residing beside them. He shewed us his garden, which is beautiful. [150] The flowers, mostly grown in considerable masses, made a brave show, especially the honey–suckle & delphinium. Here for the first time I saw humming–birds. They abound in this place. Here also I plucked a few lingering strawberries from the plants. Mr Price is as interesting as his garden is beautiful. He is an antiquarian as well as a lover of nature. His walls are covered with curiosities, which he has collected during his long residence in this country. He has the bayonet of the first of Wolfe's soldiers who perished in the campaign which ended in the conquest of Quebec; many cannon, French & English; & a number of cannon–balls, & shells; a tomahawk, numerous Indian weapons, &c &c. We inscribed our names in his book of visitors, which contains many interesting & some famous names. I was much interested in Mr Price's conversation. He has evidently taken great pains to understand & conciliate the French population, in whose midst he lives. He speaks in high terms of the curés, who in his opinion exercise an influence both powerful & beneficent over their flocks. The anti–ecclesiastical policy of the French Republic has strengthened their attachment to the British Empire; & he has observed in the last few years the extraordinary spectacle of 'Union Jacks' displayed along with the French flag on Festivals. He thinks the French are conscious that the tendency of the age is against them; & that, though they may retard, they cannot ultimately prevent, the triumph [151] of the English speech. He had heard a French politician addressing an assembly of his own countrymen, tell them that early marriages & devotion to their church were the only effective barriers against the advancing tide of English influences. In answer to an inquiry of mine, Mr Price said that he had observed a curious dislike of the French to the Irish. In spite of their agreement in religion the French dislike the Irish far more than they dislike the English.

After tea, which was served in the glass house annexed to the drawing room, we were taken to look at the Falls from above. A hideous wall or dam of masonry inflicts an insult on one's eyes, & makes impossible a fair appreciation of the cataract itself. Yet the volume of water is considerable, & the height of the Fall is no less than [blank] feet. The natural beauty of the entourage could hardly be exaggerated. But that fatal conception of natural beauty as so much 'power' is defacing Canada hopelessly. Mr Price assured me that he could vouch for the injury which has already been done to Niagara. The volume of water in the American fall is perceptibly less than it was when he first saw the Falls a generation ago. He assured me that the ill impression of the Laval University which I had received from the spectacle of this morning is well grounded. The university is hopelessly behind the times in all essentials of modern education.

[152]

We dined very pleasantly with Mrs Macpherson at 73 Ste Ursule Street, Quebec. We walked there from the hotel losing ourselves ludicrously en route. The company consisted of Canon Scott, a local incumbent of High Church proclivities, Mr & Mrs B. [blank], Mr Price and Mr Hale. We had a brisk conversation which ranged far & wide. I found myself energetically defending the cause of Free Trade against all the rest; however our discussion was as [earnest– crossed out] courteous as it was keen, & we separated in amity.

Canon Scott spoke with enthusiasm of Mr Bourchier, the 'Garden City' parson, whom I allowed to preach in S. Margaret's in that interest. Apparently he made a sensation in Quebec & Montreal by his preaching, in which a principal element is said to be his voice. "Father" Waggett is also a hero in these parts. Canon Scott said that he was himself an associate of the Cowley fathers. So the leaven spreads here also.

I was shown a copy of the new "Book of Common Praise" which Henry Frowde has just published for the Convention of the Church of England in Canada. It is composed on the principle of 'agreement by inclusion' – the formula of our new sacerdotalists. Practically it works out (teste the Prayer Book) to the advantage of that section which is conscientiously exclusive i.e. the sacerdotalists.

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