The Henson Journals

[83]

Saturday, June 19th, 1909.

The morning was dull & chilly, and the day sustained the precedents of its beginning. Ella having given a slight twist to her ankle in running upstairs last night, elected to breakfast in bed. After arranging for the satisfaction of her desire, & consumed alone my own breakfast, I went round to the tourists' shop, and bought two spools of 12 films for 1.80: and succeeded in remedying the mischief which the good–natured Frenchman did to my camera yesterday, when he photographed us in our coach. Then I took some photographs: in the course of the morning, no less than six viz.

1. The little chalet by the 'Hymen' terrace

2. A deer beside the road.

3. Another deer

4. Tom Benson standing beside his horse

5. A view across the canon of the Gardiner River.

6. Our carriage with Ella & Mrs Benson in the "Silver Gate" in the Hoodoos.

Major Benson very kindly arranged a drive for us: he himself & his son accompanying on horse–back. Our carriage was drawn by two fine mules, which certainly needed their proverbial surefootedness to draw us safely up a steep road heavily trenched by the recent rains.

[84]

I wrote to Mother, Harold, Inge, Mr Lloyd, & Mary.

We had tea with the Bensons in their new house, which promises to be comfortable. Major Benson was very interesting in conversation. He said that, if the Spaniards had fought, the Americans would have suffered great disasters in the Cuban war. The insufficiency of the army for the needs of the Republic had been demonstrated. There was no difficulty in securing recruits for the pay was good, (15 dollars a month clear money to begin with), and the term of enlistment short. Unsatisfactory men were dismissed the service, as there were plenty of better ones to replace them. Speaking of his force, he said that in the summer time there was no lack of interest for the men; but during the winter, it was difficult to find sufficient recreation. There had, however, been only 7 desertions in the course of last year.

In the evening the fortnightly ball for the members of the establishment took place. A goodly contingent of the soldiers were present. Major & Mrs Benson came over; & I had some more conversation with him. He has served in Cuba & the Philippines; in both countries he formed the worst impressions of the Roman Church. The main interest of the priesthood appears to be the extortion of money under every conceivable pretence. He says that Filipino parents will sell their children into slavery in order to repay a loan of 5 dollars. The fiction [85] of contract is, however, maintained in the stipulation that wages of 25 cents yearly shall be paid. He found the domestic morals of the people to be deplorable.

Moved by the recollection of last Thursday's service at the Cañon Hotel, I wrote to the Manager, offering to conduct service here tomorrow at any time he might judge to be convenient. An obsequious little man, German or Swiss probably, appeared, & made ample promises to arrange for everything for 8.30 tomorrow night: but whether he will be as good as his word I have some doubt.

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