The Henson Journals

[79]

Thursday, June 17th, 1909.

A flock of pelican played about in front of the hotel before we started. They entered pleasingly into the foreground of a picture of surpassing beauty. The blue lake, fringed with pine woods, and girt with snow covered mountains, all under a clear heaven & bright sun made up a scene to gaze upon with rapture, & to recall with delight. The drive of 16 miles to the cañon was wonderful in many respects. Every element of interest came into it – the terrible in the immense water–fall of the Yellowstone; the grim in the mud volcanoe, the pleasing in the herd of grazing elk, the placid in the lake with couplets of wild duck on their honeymoon, the lively, in the squirrels & chipmunks. We saw a cayote sitting up boldly beside the road: a pair of ground hogs played about the boulders which compressed the tortured waters of the Yellowstone where they take their great leap: two solemn & mighty hawks sate on a dead tree by the wayside, & contemplated with scornful aloofness the procession of tourists. Throughout the whole three hours there was not a dull minute, but episodes of ecstasy at every few minutes. We reached the hotel in a kind of intoxication – having drunk ourselves full with the good wine of the Delectable Mountains.

[80]

The Elk and indeed all the wild creatures are wonderfully tame. When they moved away on our approach they did so with a slow deliberate motion that assigned little fear. No doubt this pleasing confidence reflects their persuasion that they are in no danger from man, & happily this confidence is not misplaced; thanks to the salutary vigilance with which the Government guards the fauna of the Park.

After lunch we drove out to see the Cañon. At various points of vantage stages have been provided, from which the best views can be obtained. Nothing can express the wonder & terror of this mighty gorge, or its manifoldness of form, or its singular & changing beauty. On the very tops of the great detached rocks the eagles had built their nests. The bold flight of these kingly birds greatly enhanced the attractiveness of the spectacle. They matched their habitation. The Great Falls of the Yellowstone River are perfect. Waterfalls are said to be the most disappointing of natural phenomena: but not the most captious of tourists could reasonably find the saying illustrated by this noble Fall. The surroundings are perfect; the mass of water adequate; the height no less than 360 feet; the view up & down the gorge entirely satisfying. The fatiguing ascent of 492 steps was a small fee to pay for so grand a performance!

[81]

Shortly after our return to the hotel a note was brought to me from the Manager stating that some of the visitors desired a religious service after dinner to be conducted by me. After consulting the Bishop, I acquiesced in the suggestion, and made preparation for the service by composing an 'extempore' prayer. Once more we lamented the ungodly carelessness which sent on my prayer book to Seattle. While waiting for the appointed hour, a thunder–storm came up the valley, bringing with it some extremely fine colour effects, and a double rainbow of uncommon brilliancy. Again I looked for the bear behind the hotel, and again I looked in vain. However some of the visitors, who stayed later to watch, reported that a brown bear showed himself & retired.

About 40 visitors attended the service. We sang two hymns after a fashion. I read my prayer, and the VIIIth Psalm, giving a little address on the words, "What is man that thou art mindful of him?" Mrs Mann played the accompaniment of the hymns, & the Bishop gave the Benediction. On the whole, I am glad that the service was held: it mitigated the unseemly secularism of last Sunday: & was an evidence that American tourists have a sense of religion, with which, perhaps, they are not often credited.

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