The Henson Journals

[73]

Tuesday, June 15th, 1909.

I was down at 6.30 a.m. inquiring for bears. The watchman volunteered to take me to the scene of their nightly visits, but, though there were signs of their recent presence, the shaggy gentlemen themselves were not to be seen. My guide was a Manchester man, who seven years since had come out to America seeking his fortune & was still home–sick. He said that there was more drunkenness in a week in America than in a month in England. Probably his witness was prejudiced, but all that I hear confirms me in my a priori judgement that prohibition does not really make for temperance.

The drive of about nine miles to "Old Faithful Inn" was delightful; almost every few yards had some fresh marvel to display. It is vain to describe the geysers: they have a common character, but also an individuality of their own. The beauty of the scenery would have made the drive notable of itself, but the sinister interest of the geysers made it altogether extraordinary. Again & again we observed the ravages of forest fires. The trees seem to fight a desperate battle for existence against the double enemy, fire above & the deathly deposits of the geysers from below. Nothing could exceed the forlorn & undone aspect of the dead trees, here charred, there coated with a shroud of geyserite.

[74]

One most curious feature of this district is the close proximity of the hot springs to the rivers. Hard by the bank of the Firehole River – a rapid & vigorous stream – are many geysers. One – the Riverside geyser – is very remarkable, for it throws its boiling fountains far across the river. The twin vents have the aspect of a large double mortar, and they jut into the stream with the threatening aggressiveness of a military device. Once more we wondered at the extraordinary beauty of the fountains & lakelets. The "Morning Glory", the "Gem", the "Rainbow" are names justly chosen to indicate the rare colouring of the pools.

As we drove up to the hotel, "Old Faithful" was concluding a performance. We watched several subsequent performances with much interest. The jets of water are thrown to a considerable height, & the volumes of steam make a grand show.

Ella & I strolled over the geyser–field in front of the hotel. Perhaps this unguided sauntering is the most impressive mode of seeing this wonderland. As we moved over the enchanted ground, mindful of our feet, for on all sides vents opened in the soil threatening sudden destruction, we grew bewildered at the bizarre & terrible aspect of everything. Here was a great hollow mass piled beside the river, filled to bursting with water heated by subterranean fires and penetrated with endless holes & fantastic fissures in which water bubbled & boiled. From which ever & anon volumes [75] of steam brake forth. Some of the geysers had architectural distinction. The "Beehive" was a notable little cauldron; the Lion, Lioness & Cubs were an imposing group of four vents; the Castle was massive & lofty enough to make a figure in the landscape. All these I photographed, Ella standing alongside the two last.

We had just inspected the 'Castle', & had I finished my photograph of Ella against the massive Cone, when, quite unexpectedly the geyser erupted. I had to run from the falling spray. We were, indeed, very fortunate, for this geyser only gives a performance once in 30 hours. A beautiful rainbow was formed by the spray falling in the sunlight. The volume of water thrown up appeared to be very considerable, & the eruption was accompanied by an awesome rumbling. The scene was most impressive. As we reluctantly turned away to go back to the hotel for dinner, "Old Faithful" began to erupt; so we enjoyed the remarkable sight of these two geysers, each famous among geysers, erupting at the same time.A heavy thunder–cloud, which yet did not hinder the sun from shining, gave a lurid touch to the scene.

After dinner we mounted to the roof of the Hotel, whence we gained a fine prospect of the whole field of geysers. Then we went to the rear of the hotel, & observed a fine black bear issue from the woods, & begin to feast on the accumulated garbage from the hotel.

The eruption of ''Old Faithful'' after sunset was [76] illuminated by a search–light from the top of the hotel. The effect was, of course, impressive in its way, for the fierce & sudden light isolated the fountain of boiling water, and seemed to magnify it: but the total result was regrettable. There was an intolerable vulgarity about the whole performance: the screams of women, delighted & frightened at once, suggested a display of fireworks at Margate or Blackpool! I was really indignant at so gross a profanation of so great a spectacle.

The hotel at which we are staying for this night is itself worthy a place in the diary of a traveller. "Old Faithful" Inn is said to be 'the most extensive log structure yet devised by man'; and, for ought I know to the contrary, may deserve the same. Saving for the foundations & the chimneys, it is wholly constructed of wood; the greatest ingenuity has been expended on its construction, natural twists & turns of timber being utilized with the happiest effect. One might well imagine one' self [sic] entering the palace of a primitive English Monarch or 'earl', were it not that electricity provides the light, and there are all the appliances of a modern hotel at the visitors disposal. But the log–fires burning in the great open grates in the vast hall offer a spectacle not soon to be erased from the tablets of memory. It is not enough to say that "Old Faithful Inn" is worthy of its situation in the most wonderful district on earth.

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