The Henson Journals

[22]

Wednesday, August 28th, 1901.

In spite of the ring round the moon last night, the day was brilliant, & we started for Upsala under the brightest auspices. The train was fast according to Swedish reckoning; it performed a journey of 40 miles in 1 hour & 20 minutes. On our arrival we went at once to the Cathedral, which stands out conspicuously from the little town, which it dominates. It is reputed the finest Gothic structure in the country. Built by a French architect, or, at least, under French influences it has an exotic appearance. Its recent restoration has given it a 'spic–&–span' aspect, which detracts from its legitimate effect: the restoration, however, has been well down, & the modern glass & frescoes are harmonious. There is very little painted glass, & very much colour on the walls: the general effect is a little frivolous. Behind the high altar is the tomb of Abp. [sic] who founded the University. The chapel east of the choir, which would be the Lady–chapel with us, contains the tombs of Gustavus Vasa & his wives. The walls are covered with paintings depicting the king's life. We were shown the treasure of the Church. There were crowns of Vasa & his Queen, sceptres, chalices six centuries old, & plainly designed for the communion of the laity; the Archbishop's pastoral staff, S. Brigit's head–shawl, a curious pulpit–hour–glass &c. I opened a silver casket & was surprised to find in it a number of wafers stamped with the crucifix; evidently intended for use. The sacristan, in answer to my question, told me that these wafers were used at Holy Communion. Is this customary in Lutheran churches? Leaving the cathedral we hastened to the University Library, which we reached a few minutes before the time of closing. However a courteous official permitted us to see the great treasure of the Library – Ulphilas's Gothic translation of the Bible, the famous Codex argenteus. It is written in silver characters on purple vellum, & elaborately bound in silver. Then we had lunch, after which we chartered a carriage, & drove out to the barrows about 3 miles from Upsala. There are three, designated after the Scandinavian deities – Odin, Freya, & Thor. The Church was interesting; being largely built out of the stones of the pagan temple, which once occupied the ground. Built into the wall was a large stone marked with runic characters & a serpent with a Cross. Inside, thrust into a corner, was a mediaeval altar–piece. According to custom we carried some mead in a horn to the top of the barrows, & there drank it, pouring libations to the Gods of the country. I improvised a formula for the occasion:–

"As this mead, falling to the ground, passes & is seen no more.

So may the unclean stains of civilization pass from thy land, O Thor."

We climbed the ancient trysting hill of the Northmen, from which a noble view of Upsala was obtained, & then returned to Stockholm.

Upsala is a town of about 22,000 inhabitants, less than 1/2 the size of Oxford. The University is a flourishing society, with considerable endowments, and about 600 students. They wear a white velvet cap, with a black border, & are organized into nations after the mediaeval plan.

---