The Henson Journals

[18]

Saturday, August 24th, 1901.

We got up about 4 a.m. in order to see Stockholm with the sun–rise: but we were a little too early for the best effects. However we had a very fine view as we approached the city. There was the usual uncomfortable interval of yawning & perplexity before we could get to the Hotel Belfrage, & obtain some breakfast. Afterwards we went to the Poste Restante, where I obtained a bundle of letters, & 3 copies of the Pilot from Gore. Then I was shaved by a middle–aged woman. She performed the function very well, but it was rather a comical performance. Returning to the hotel I wrote to Carissima letter No. 5. and then we all lunched at a large Restauration connected with the Royal Theatre. In front of us was a spirited statue of Charles XII. This hotel is in the confusion & evil savour of painting. I am surrounded by the very abominations, from which I fly at home. We paid a flying visit to the Westminster Abbey of Sweden – the Ritterchurch, where are the tombs of great national heroes – Gustavus Adolphus & Charles XII. In the afternoon we went to the Stausen, which is a combination of Zoo, park, and national museum, on one of the islands. There is much to interest the observant visitor. I was particularly struck by the reindeer, the splendid eagles, ravens, owls, & other Swedish birds, and the pretty dresses of the attendants, who are clothed in the national costume. The houses of the Lapps, & antique Swedish dwellings are all very curious & interesting, but we had not time enough to make an adequate inspection. We dined at the same Restaurant where we lunched: & then returned to the Hotel, where, after reading Thursday's Standard, I went to bed.

Moule has been sent to succeed Westcott at Durham. It is, I suppose, a good appointment. An Evangelical being, under all the circumstances inevitable, he was the obvious man. The Northern province is rapidly becoming the stronghold of the Evangelical party. It is something to have been spared Sinclair or Welldon.

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