The Henson Journals

[14]

Tuesday, August 20th, 1901.

Miss Jenny Ahrén, a young Swedish lady, know to the Reichels, most obligingly acted as our guide for two hours in the forenoon: we went for a drive in a very beautiful park, and visited the Fürstenberg Picture Gallery, which is small but has a few modern Swedish pictures worth looking at. The native sculpture is certainly very superior to the native painting. The Reichels having gone to visit friends in an adjacent township, I went to my room & wrote letters to Raleigh & Mr. Talbot. Then I made a rather unsuccessful attempt to get lunch: I ordered some salmon, which to my horror, was brought to me raw, & accordingly, much to the waiter's amazement, rejected. I had, however, to pay for it.

I was astonished to find in the hotel a pompous publication of the Faith–healing quack – Dowie – whose performances in England, a few months ago, almost provoked a riot among the medical–students of London. He describes a mob of 30,000 doctors outside S. Martin's Hall clamouring for his blood. According to his account he flourishes mightily in U.S.A. His paper is published at Chicago, & is called "Leaves of Healing". It appears that in June last he declared himself publicly as Elijah the Restorer of all things: & is engaged in floating a hagio–commercial scheme, – the City of Zion. Christian Science is repudiated as a 'diabolical counterfeit'!!

I walked round the quays, which were sufficiently busy. There were several English vessels coaling. The large offices of Wilson & Son, Hull, by the quay–side, attested to the connection with England. All ports seem to me alike: there is the same apparent chaos, & penetrating order: the same mixture of races & tongues: the same indescribable odours: the same nomadic hosts of bare–legged boys, fishing & fidgeting: the same weather–beaten, impenetrable faces.

The naked rock thrusts itself boldly into view in the midst of the houses: it is typical of Swedish civilization. The primitive jostles the cultured: luxury is elbowed by barbarism. This hotel has the aspect of a palace, & a drainage system which would hardly satisfy a kraal.

After dinner we went again to the adjoining garden; and drank our coffee to the music of a very creditable military band, which played a varied selection including some Wagner. Continental society is certainly much better equipped with the means of rational enjoyment than society in England. We have nothing in most country towns but the street & the pothouse: & our people are so unused in rational enjoyment that, if the continental opportunities were offered them, they would most probably misconduct themselves by abusing them. We pay the price of having escaped the French Revolution. All our best things are for the privileged minority. The multitude has no opportunities because it has no ambitions.

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